The Lemon

THE LEMON Lemons get a bad rap sometimes, but they've done much good since reputedly making the trek all the way from Kashmir to somewhere in Italy in 200 A.D. Columbus later brought them in seed form to Hispaniola in 1493, and then lemons found their way to Florida.

Lemons make their way into almost everything. Too often, they're a garnish, but they can also "cook" the food itself, as in ceviche, an elemental South American dish. The fish soaks in the acids of citrus juices (lime and/or lemon), which alter the texture of the flesh. Some people drink the liquid left behind after the fish has been eaten.

Like salt, lemons are often hidden, serving as a catalyst. A squeeze of juice added to grilled chicken or pork just before serving brightens their flavors, and the right amount of lemon juice can save any hummus. Rightfully, many beloved dishes are built around giving lemons a chance. Chicken Francese pairs thinly pounded chicken cutlets with a fine touch of broth made from white wine balanced with lemon. Lemon meringue pie, with its frosty peaks, may have gone the way of beehive hairdos, but I still want it every time I go into a diner. Some people slice lemons into thin rounds, boil them off, then saturate them with sugar syrup to make candies. You'll sometimes find them dried, ground and mixed with pepper and other spices. They are also the basis of my barbecued chicken rub.

FRESH LEMONADE 1 1/2 cups sugar 8 cups water 1 1/2 cups fresh lemon juice (no pits, but as much pulp as possible) Combine sugar and one cup water and bring to a boil. Stir to dissolve the sugar. Take off the heat and cool to room temperature. Mix in a pitcher with the lemon juice and the remaining water. Chill or serve over ice. Add a splash of ginger ale and some blue raspberry vodka to make a summer cocktail. SALMON ROASTED IN PARCHMENT 2 salmon filets (approx. 6 oz. each) 1 lemon, cut into 6 1/2-inch rounds; reserve the rest of the lemon 1 small carrot, 1 small onion-julienned 1 small stalk celery, 1/4 red bell pepper-julienned 1 bunch fresh herbs (dill or oregano suggested) salt, pepper, olive oil, parchment paper, kitchen twine Preheat oven to 400. Rub parchment paper with olive oil. Place each filet on a sheet big enough to fold into a package. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, place lemon circles on top of filets, add a small amount of the vegetables to each packet, top each with fresh herbs and a light squeeze of juice from the lemon. Fold each into a neat package, and tie them loosely with twine. Roast for 10 minutes and serve.