Thailand, Cambodia & Vietnam

IT WASN'T UNTIL I'd suffered the pangs of the onset of my sixth straight northern European winter, while marveling at the sixth roll of snapshots from my gushy homegirl's trip to Thailand, that I let myself entertain the idea that travel to Southeast Asia was doable.

At the time, it was a bit like Africa is in my mind now: Just how do I approach it?

Most guidebooks talk about currency and banks and expensive hotels with cursory warnings to watch your wallet. But once you land, you'll see that the "As seen in Lonely Planet" signs are as ubiquitous as "World-Famous Pizza" in Manhattan. People will try to rip you off, but there's a lot more to glean from your fellow traveler than the guide books would dare tell. Though brief, this overview will provide some basics on how to get settled and sketch some of the journeys you might take through Thailand, Cambodia and Vietnam.

Whether it's a nonstop party, a meditation retreat or classes in massage, cooking or scuba diving, Thailand has it pre-arranged for the novice traveler. Since the fares are so affordable, you will most likely arrive in Bangkok, where you can catch a taxi ($6) to either the backpacker haven Khao San Road, or the more upscale Sukhumvit area. Guests houses ($4 to $8 with A/C) and hotels ($12-$1000) are plentiful, and it's not essential to book in advance. While the hardened Bangkokers can be gruff with foreigners, they can't be rude if you keep the smile on your face-attitude goes a long way all through the region.

In addition to the temples and food, the capital is best enjoyed for its shopping opportunities. The markets in Patpong, Khoa San, the massive MBK shopping mall and Chinatown are puddles compared with the gigantic weekend market at Jatujak (Sky Train station Mo Chit $1.50, taxi $2.50) where you can buy anything from used clothing to 24-Karat gold to trained fighting cocks. When negotiating, expect to pay about 60 to 70 percent of the asking price; turning on your heel can often as not be a deal maker. Be tough and you'll get some great deals. CDs, DVDs and software are plentiful and can be found at gigantic Pantip Plaza, located at 604/3 Phetchaburi Road.

Outside the city, options abound. If you like trekking, you can hit the north and the golden triangle starting with a trip to Chiang Mai by train ($15, leaves frequently). There, marvel at the temples and one of Thailand's loveliest towns. The Top North Hotel is a great deal. Rent a four-wheeler ($30/day) and check out Mount Inthanon, the eastern Himalayas and the old capital of the ancient Lanna kingdom. In November, the four-day Loi Krathong festival (this year, Nov. 26) is a sea of revelers, and both the sky and rivers are filled with fire. Hill tribes galore and an old communal 60s hideaway called Pai are nearby.

Down south, there are islands and beaches to choose from, each with their strengths and weaknesses. Koh Chang is the place to avoid prostitutes and has the cleanest beaches (Lonely Beach recommended). Phuket and Pattaya are heavily touristed and sleazy; the former is more expensive, with nice beaches, the latter sleazier, with better nightlife. Koh Samui is a mix between the two, quiet but becoming more gentrified. Koh Tao is the place for diving, and Koh Pangan is where the infamous full-moon parties are held. Buses will take you everywhere, with ferries included ($5 to $10).

With Cambodia, the real challenge is just getting into the country. Visas can be obtained at the border for $20 (plus a $2 bribe if the bill is not in pristine condition), but the roads deteriorate badly once you leave Thailand. If you only want to see Angkor Wat, take the bumpy Poipet route in the north ($15 from Bangkok). The Wat is one of the seven man-made wonders of the world and can barely be seen in a day ($20), so spring for the three-day pass ($50). Amazing constructions and incomprehensible symbols reflect an ancient Hindu civilization abandoned, and unknown by the West, for 700 years.

There is plenty more to this quietly reconstructing rural nation, so if you have more time, take the southern route through Koh Kong ($10 from Bangkok) and boat ($15) down to Sihanoukville for the night. It's a sleepy little beach town with clean water and friendly people, and the ride is smooth compared to the north. Remember, there will be tons of cabbies and motorbike drivers trying to get your business. It's a drag, but remember where you are and be nice; there may be a few bad apples, but they're not dangerous and can be helpful.

A decent highway will get you to the capital, Phnom Penh, where there is ample accommodation. Guest houses (from $2) to nice hotels ($25) can be found by the bus stop, or by asking a couple questions. Although it's the wild east, Phnom Penh's reputation is not nearly as dangerous as in years past, and once you find a reliable driver (stick with one or two at $4 to $10 a day) you are free to roam. Visit the killing fields and the sinister S-21 prison to remind you of what the Cambodian people have suffered (almost a third of the population was liquidated).

You will feel welcomed by these incredibly hospitable people. The Walkabout is a fun bar with satellite sports for the homesick. Mister Ya's tourist service (song_ya@hotmail.com) can take you to villages where you may eat snakes or mice, or to Cambodian discos with live bands that would make David Byrne blush. Angkor Wat is best approached from the lake (gentle hydrofoil $20, six hours).

The cheapest and fastest place to acquire a visa for Vietnam is in Phnom Penh ($25 bucks with a one- or two-day wait), and the bus to Ho Chi Minh City ($5) takes about seven hours. You will arrive in the tourist area, which is nothing compared to Bangkok and will hint at how off the path-thankfully-Vietnam still is for travelers. Probably because of that, the locals are incredibly helpful and friendly. Top-flight hotels can be had for very affordable prices (Novotel $65, Saigon Star $35, but cheap guest houses are abundant).

Vietnam is safer than Thailand or Cambodia, so definitely step off the beaten path. The traffic might seem scary at first, but you'll get used to it; just go with the flow. Besides the gorgeous otherworldly Mekong delta and the engineering feat of the Cu Chi Tunnels (used to subvert to U.S. troops during the war), there are more great shopping opportunities all over. This is, after all, the factory for much of the world's clothing. Getting out is cheap and easy by bus, but more scenic by train ($40, two days to Hanoi) and convenient by plane ($99 to Hanoi, $69 to Nha Trang, the beach resort).

For trips into the villages and mountains, start in lovely Dalat. Drivers know all the history and camping ($35 to $50 per day per motorbike guide). Hanoi is a French colonial architectural gem, and Halong Bay is one of the most preserved natural parks in this part of the world; it depends on how much time you can invest. This huge, peaceful country has yet to be fully documented and is ripe for adventure.

The prices given above are representative of a typical trip, but you can make your money last as long as you want. Street grub is a buck a meal, and accommodation and travel is as cheap as you want it to be. In a few years, these new Asian tiger economies hope to become more like the West, so this is your chance to see them before cell phones find their way to the countryside.