In 2002, the Philippines led a group of 44 countries ...

ilippines led a group of 44 countries in a formal request that led the U.N. to declare 2004 the International Year of Rice. Among the goals of the year-long initiative was to promote an increase in production and distribution of the crop, which feeds more than half the world's population.

For thousands of years, rice has been one of the world's most flexible and nutritious foods. It is so embedded in Colombia's dietary culture that some people refer to rice and beans as that country's national dish. Rice provides 60 to 70 percent of the calories for two billion Asians, who were among the earliest of its cultivators. Their culture is so fundamentally linked to the tiny grains that in some parts of China people were once known to greet each other by asking, "Have you had your rice today?" They may even say, "I lost my rice bowl" upon losing their job.

There are thousands of varieties of rice. In the U.S., long-grain rice is among the most popular; it comes in many varieties, including red camargue, a French rice that is a hybrid of a white and local wild rice. In Asia, short-grain rices like japonica are common, as well as glutinous rice (which actually contains no gluten), which gets the name from the way the grains stick together when cooked. (Incidentally, wild rice, a favorite in the Midwest, is actually an aquatic grass-not technically rice at all.)

Different rices call for different cooking techniques. Arborio rice, used in Italy's famous risotto dishes, is sauteed and then stirred while liquid is slowly added and absorbed, a little at a time. Others are soaked and/or rinsed before they are cooked. Some styles are more labor-intensive than others, but they all yield big rewards. From rice-crispy bars to pilaf or pudding, savory or sweet, just about any meal can be a time to explore a different twist on an ancient favorite.

Congee

1 cup short-grain or arborio rice, rinsed and drained

8 cups chicken broth

1 teaspoon salt

Bring drained rice and broth to a boil over high heat. Reduce heat and cook partially covered for one hour, stirring occasionally, until the rice starts to break down and the mixture has the texture of porridge. Remove from the heat and stir in the salt. Garnish with minced scallions or fresh cilantro.

Congee is flexible enough to support whatever cooked vegetables or meat you want, and garnish is an important player. It's a perfect dish after a night of one too many.