Hot Meals in Cool Places Desirables for a successful ...

To the north, in the money-filled town of Newport, you can find excellent Italian food off the beaten path at Puerini's (24 Memorial Blvd. W.; 401-847-5506). It's a short cab ride from the harbor. White tablecloths, good wines, shadows from flickering candlelight and corners that low conversations echo around. From the menu: homemade pasta, inventive specials and a way with veal. This small restaurant is conducive to a leisurely dinner. Skip the dessert, stop by a deli for some vanilla ice cream and stroll back to the room where, on your balcony, you can feed her Haagen-Dazs topped with the Chambord you stashed in your duffel.

Closer to the center of things in Newport is the elegantly casual and airy Scales & Shells (527 Thames St.; 401-846-FISH). She will probably jump out of her seat and leave you for a bit to peer into the open kitchen and check out the iced wares before deciding which sea critter shall be hers. You can start with fried calamari or shrimp cocktail from the raw bar. For an entree, mesquite grilling of fish such as striped bass, toro or trout is the thing here. Rebels may opt for mussels marinara, or share the lobster fra diavolo for two. No meat, but they do have pasta and vegetable kebabs. No reservations unless you sit upstairs in the fancier dining room. After dinner, a walk and a talk by the water. (Skip the Clarke Cooke House?the most beautiful sunset view in town, but sucky service. And while a few dishes are stellar, many are simply under par.)

Southward on the Atlantic, in lower Delaware, lies Rehoboth Beach. The gals play touch football at the north part of the beach, while the southern end is reserved for the boys. Families swarm the center. Before dinner, win her a stuffed animal on the boardwalk, then take a short walk to jazzy, lowlit, hetero-friendly Cloud 9 Restaurant (234 Rehoboth Ave.; 302-226-1999). At this surreally styled spot with Lewis Carroll-y black-and-white floor tiles, you can use your hands on a starter for two of hummus, roasted red pepper caponata and baba ganoush with herb crostini, pita and tortillas ($13).

For the main course, order your date the grilled filet mignon in a pear-enriched veal reduction with marinated asparagus and Maytag blue cheese mashed potatoes ($23). For a man-sized appetite there's a 12-ounce prime dry-aged New York strip with house steak sauce, shoestring fries and the asparagus ($32). Pastas and salads are also on the menu. DJs take over on Friday and Saturday at 10. Have one of Cloud 9's fancy desserts, or leave to lick at some soft-serve on lower Rehoboth Ave. While that bottle of wine you split is still buzzing, you may want to grab a blanket and head for the beach.

When out east, during the day, walk for miles along the pristine Southampton village seashore admiring the mansions, one of which you'll certainly get for her one day, and the old church, where maybe you two will be married. During the night, head even farther out. Thursday in Amagansett fills Pacific East (415 Main St.; 631-267-7770) with $19.99 three-course prix-fixe specials-seekers. Asian-accented offerings are found here, such as a spicy grilled portobello "steak" with tamarind barbecue sauce and roast beet hash. A sushi bar in the back of the dining room turns out pretty good rolls. Enjoy your dinner on the porch among torches, and retire to the front bar after dessert. Inside, the warm lighting makes the middle-aged diners look good. The bar is younger and unreally attractive. Avoid weekends here when the demographic changes and there's thumping house music, a wannabe Secret Service bouncer speaking into his lapel and busloads of share people deposited at the bar. One Friday night a pretty Pennsylvanian was heard to say, "These people are so fuckin' rude."

Or you could take Long Lane to Two Holes to Swamp Road and find Sag Harbor. Peruse the print shop on Main St., where watercolors of pinks and purples may be purchased. For sunset, head to the harbor, where servers' t's read "B. Black. B. White. B. Smith's" (Long Wharf Marina at Bay St.; 631-725-5858). Offer your date a creamsicle martini of Stoli Vanil, Stoli Ohranj and o.j. This is a good time to get a plate of oysters.

If you're summering in the city, try the Spanish-styled La Paella (214 E. 9th St., betw. 2nd & 3rd Aves.; 598-4321), where the doors open wide on warm evenings; ask for street-level seating. If there's a wait, buy her a trinket at M. Sonii a couple doors down; $12 for wire-hung round silver earrings trimmed with red sparklies. Or an amber-colored crystal beaded bracelet for $14, or a deco rhinestone encrusted barrette for $13.

At your dinner table, dried roses hang overhead, and the only light is from candles?many wax, some electric. Choose from a large selection of tapas, like red peppers stuffed with cod and bechamel ($8), albondigas (seasoned meatballs in tomato sauce, $6) and grilled scallops marinated with rosemary and lemon ($9). A few ceviches ($9) and paellas for two ($24-$36) are offered. Spanish wines run from $18 to $40, and sangria is served by the glass or pitcher.

After a visit to the top of the Empire State Bldg., step over to Coda (34 E. 34th St., betw. Madison & 5th Aves.; 685-3434) for DJs and live music. Double doors open to welcome the summer wind. Better to dress up than down here. Under gold chandeliers, sit on sofas or move your hassock next to hers at the little candlelit tables. Full bar as well as light bites like fondue?a mocha-Frangelico version, as well as a "classic" Swiss with cracked pepper. If she loses her tidbit to the pot, she owes you a kiss.

Do not bring your date to the Cutting Room in the summertime. When Chris Noth walks in, glowing in a crisp white shirt and ducking his head slightly in a futile attempt to avoid attention, you are sure to seem ugly and arrogant in comparison. Never mind getting lucky?you probably won't even get your phone calls returned.