Sophisticated New Japanese Restaurant Opens in Hotel Chelsea
A centerpiece of Teruko, a new restaurant at the Hotel Chelsea, is a stunning backbar composed of shells brought all the way from the original Orchid Bar in Tokyo, showcasing its whiskey collection.
There is a new swanky, sensuous subterranean restaurant that just opened at the Hotel Chelsea and as the place blends traditional with new wave offerings, one of its draws is the largest collection of Japanese whiskies in North America.
Teruko, the new Japanese restaurant, is the third and final addition to an international culinary repertoire inside the storied hotel, joining the French-American brasserie Café Chelsea and the Spanish restaurant El Quijote.
The owners boast that Teruko has the largest collection of Japanese whiskies in the United States.
Thoughtfully collected over the past three years since the idea of Teruko was just an inkling, the offerings include an immense spectrum of whiskies, some verging on the tens-of-thousands-of-dollars-per-serving echelon. But certainly there are more affordable options, as well as a beautiful wine list composed by Claire Paparazzo, Hotel Chelsea’s acclaimed wine director, as well as brilliantly innovative cocktails that integrate exotic Japanese elements into classic American tipples.
Any or all of these pair magnificently with the comprehensive menu.
Teruko literally translates as “bright, shining child” in Japanese, although that is not from where the name of this restaurant derived.
The new dining spot is actually named for Teruko Yokoi, an artist and resident who lived in the hotel with her husband from the 1950s until the early 2000s.
Her art is the perfect inspiration for the refined cuisine of Executive Chef Tadashi Ono, who worked with the Hotel Chelsea co-owner Sean MacPherson at Matsuri, alongside the head sushi chef Hideaki Watanabe.
”We loved working with Tadashi Ono at Matsuri and are thrilled to get the band back together at Teruko,” states MacPherson, one of the hotel’s co-owners. And while the subdued atmosphere might not immediately conjure up rock-star party vibes, the space was formerly the home of the under-the-radar, super-exclusive nightclub Serena until 2003. It then reconfigured briefly as the Star Lounge, under the direction of Charles Ferri, until that closed in 2010 amid the ownership upheaval that forced the hotel to shut down for 11 long years, from 2011 until a partial reopening in May 2022. The underground restaurant space remained vacant until now.
As such, “bright and shining” might not be the first adjectives that come to mind when you descend into the dining room, but there is no lack of a moody opulence.
Banquettes covered in plush velvet trick the eye between deep shades of blue and green, richly brown wooden tabletops gleam in the warm, low light softly reflected by dark indigo-dyed denim panels and a sweeping wall of gold-veined black marble behind the sushi bar, reminiscent of immense sheets of nori. And behind the bar glows the striking centerpiece of the entryway, a stunning backbar composed of shells brought all the way from the original Orchid Bar in Tokyo, salvaged before renovations. The backdrop it provided for the original Orchid Bar’s prestigious whiskey collection is rivaled by that of Teruko, which features an extensive selection of over 250 premium Japanese whiskies, as well as sake and shoju, curated by George Padilla and Brian Evans.
Any or all of these pair magnificently with the comprehensive menu, which Chef Ono created as a showcase of traditional, premium ingredients. He is using the best of the best here, opting for a Japanese import if the quality is superior, or locally sourced when the product nearby is up to snuff. You will begin your meal with a complimentary shot of seasonal dashi served in a small, elegantly carved porcelain cup; currently, it is tomato-based, mild, and soothing, briny with just a touch of tang. A full repertoire of sushi is next, served edo-style (edomae), as well as nigiri and sashimi, priced per piece. If you’re seated at the long marble sushi bar toward the back of the dining room, you can watch Chef Watanabe and his team artfully compose each immaculate morsel, backlit by a glowing wall that makes the visuals even more theatrical.
If raw fish is not your thing (although even among these are some cooked and/or vegetarian options), there are also a smattering of chilled and hot appetizers, along with salads/soup, and, even more alluringly, six selections charred on a Robata grill fueled with oak branch Binchotan, prized for imparting an intense smoky flavor to everything it touches. From these alone one could ostensibly compose a very satisfying repast. It would not be recommended, though, because you would miss out on what might be the best dish I have eaten thus far this year, the Tai Matsukasa, an impossibly crisp-scaled red snapper in a citrusy dashi thickened with daikon. Even more popular among guests, says Charles Seich, Sunday Hospitality partner and overseer of all the hotels’ thriving restaurant operations, is the Dover sole, although priced at $110 it might be better as a shareable option. Other mains are categorized rice/noodles and meats, including Wagyu beef both domestic and imported.
As is typical of Asian desserts, Teruko’s are lighter and less sweet than traditional American ones. A standout are the Crepes Teruko with citrus and ginger ice cream, a homage to the Crêpes Suzettes that had been famous at Orchid Bar in Japan. But this sweet dessert might require a team effort, big enough for at least two, maybe four. Even the jewel-toned Kuromitsu Jellies with matcha gelato was far too much for one person, although I could also hardly stop eating it, with its playful card-suit-shaped jellies and delectable burnt honey syrup. Equally intriguing is Sekitei, a tea-perfumed mousse with miso caramel and sesame crumble. Any would serve as a gratifying and seamless finale to the stellar experience to be had at Teruko.
Teruko at the Hotel Chelsea, 222 West 23d Street.
“We loved working with Tadashi Ono at Matsuri and are thrilled to get the band back together at Teruko.” — Sean MacPherson, Hotel Chelsea co-owner